Ethical Fashion Blog

FORBIDDEN LOVE
Hettal married Suraj in the traditional manner of an Indian bride – bedazzled in an embroidered pink wedding sari, forearm to fingertip decorated with intricate henna designs.  But their love story is anything but traditional.  In a society where arranged marriage is the norm, Hettal and Suraj chose each other.  And, like the plot of a Bollywood movie, Hettal’s parents didn’t approve.  You see, Hettal is Hindu and Suraj is Buddhist.
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SUSIEL, PLEASE DON’T LET THE CAMEL RUN!
Hi ho from India.  I am still here and not only is it beginning to feel like I’ve been here forever, but it’s also starting to seem like I will be here forever.  Delhi is the Washington D.C. of India – this capital city is dominated by New Delhi, designed by the British in the 1920s, and what is left of Old Delhi, designed by Shah Jahan in the 1700s.  You can imagine the juxtaposition:  New Delhi contains the house of Jarwahal Nehru and his daughter Indira (both 1970s versions of a more modest White House) and a wide double boulevard w/ trees, fountains, and yes, even grass, that leads from the India Gate to the Government Buildings, while Old Delhi contains the pile-up of hundreds of years of mosques, bazaars, four-story homes, havelis, tombs and temples.  I last wrote from Pushkar, and while there we took a side trip to the Rajasthani city of Jodhpur, before heading further north to Bikaner.
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COLORFUL INDIA
This post will be a recurring segment to highlight just how colorful India really is.  If you like these, I encourage you to visit our Photos page (top right sidebar) to see the best of the best photos from our travels.  India is a very colorful place indeed.
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WHY YOU NO COME MY SHOP?

Hello, or Namaste as they say in Hindi!

Joni, Michelle, and I are nearing our forth and final month here in India, and I am embarrassed to say that this is only my SECOND group e-mail.  How did this happen?  I’m not sure exactly, except that this traveling lark is a bit time consuming, so much to do and see, and the whole of India to discover in only a few short months.  Still, it’s no excuse.  A few weeks ago, as we were trekking through the hot Rajasthani sand on our way to the Jaisalmer desert festival, I remarked to Michelle that this trip is like one big, long day.  There’s so much to tell, and yet how did it get to be three months from the time I last wrote?

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INDIAN TIME
In the past month, I have had a palm reader tell me that I was fit, and a yoga instructor tell me I would NEVER get fat.  The palm reader worked inside the 16th century Jodhpur fort and with bifocals hanging on to the end of his nose resembled a university professor.  Using more gracious phrasing, he called me a cheap indecisive double-checker who had the most “fit” health he’d read in years.  The robust young yoga instructor suffered from attention deficit disorder and assured me that w/ my long and lean body type I could eat as I pleased.  Good news from strangers, when every face is unfamiliar, is so believable.
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THE DESOLATE COUNTRY – THIS STATE IS ALMOST ENTIRELY A SANDY WASTE…

Monday, February 9, 2004 Travelogue:  Excerpts from past impressions and experiences in India (see the first travelogue segment we posted)

Rajasthan, Northern India

“The desolate country – this state is almost entirely a sandy waste…”  This is how Jaisalmer’s Palace Museum describes the northern desert-smeared state of Rajasthan.  The temperature has dropped remarkably and I, like every other tourist, have succumbed to wearing shawls (i.e. blankets) around town to keep warm at night.  Our noses are sun burnt red and our lips chapped by the blazing hot daylight sun and contact lenses are an impossibility here in the land of ‘fine desert dust floating through the air.’  Spring is on its way but as we’re traveling north, so the cold gathers.

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Brown Paper Packages Tied Up w/String
A sari is a single piece of material, wrapped around and around a woman’s body then thrown over the shoulder and draped almost to the heels.  It’s an entire outfit, the brilliantly hued skirt and shawl, with a draw-string underskirt and a tiny undershirt, exposing the entire belly.  The cloth in front is for modesty, and completely hides the shape of the breasts.  Shoulders and back are also covered, but the belly, the glorious belly, is left skin to air.
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India's Eunuchs
In Mumbai last summer, Michelle and I twice ran into hijras, or eunuchs, as they’re referred to in English…once while stopped at a red light in an auto-rickshaw and the other on a train.  When they walked up to our auto-rickshaw, they were begging for money and wouldn’t leave until we gave it to them.  Saying no didn’t have any effect.  We ended up giving them some coins.  We also gave some money to the hijras we encountered on the train and asked if we could take their picture, which, as you can see, came out pretty well.
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Frohliche Weinachten
Selecting Chennai – India’s fourth-ish largest city – as our port of entry into India is comparable to the average European deciding to launch their American tour from Detroit.  It is a city one would normally not visit unless, well, unless you had to…  We’ve crossed the peninsula from east to west via the Cardamom Hills in the Western Ghats, and our arrival in Kochi, Kerala was much anticipated.  Kochi is a seaside town full of travelers (imagine even the western men wearing colorful head scarves to hide the dirty hair days) w/ a Jewish quarter, two churches, and a semi-posh coffee shop to hideout in.
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Lakshmi Schmakshmi

Hello everyone!

Joni, Michelle, and I have finally reached the peace and solitude of the Cardamon Hills in the state of Kerala.  We have settled for two days in the town of Munnar, with rows and rows of tea plantations nestled on huge mountains.  Munnar is a hot spot for honeymooners from Bombay and a welcome respite because it is about 30 degrees cooler than our last several destinations.  Even in the center of the town, horn blowing is kept to bearable minimum and auto exhaust only sometimes gets in your line of smell.  It is relaxing, and I am enjoying it.

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In India There Is No Place To Buy Toilet Paper
Most Indian women decorate their face, be it w/ yellow facial dye or a multitude of multi-colored dots.  We’ve visited enough temples to recognize that the process of getting dotted is much like taking communion in the Methodist church, where everyone is invited.  A shirtless Brahmin w/ exposed chest hair and three wide white lines painted on his forehead holds a tray supporting a flaming oil lamp of sorts.  The Hindus stand in line, and when it is their turn run their hands lightly through the flame, take a bit of colored dust (rice powder) from the Brahmin’s hand into their own and place a mark on the middle of their forehead, on the bridge of their nose, and also on their neck/throat.
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Crazy Animal Town
Udaipur is one of my favorite places in India, especially because of its animal life.  It’s like being on safari, without leaving the city.  I’ve mentioned the cows, but there are many other creatures wandering the streets.  
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